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On Grapes and Grandfathers

[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2170″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Damiano Ciolli in his element”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”I have not been a particularly active blogger in the past few months despite attending many interesting tastings, several visits to wineries throughout central Italy, participating in a press trip to Port and the Douro Valley and falling in love with the wines and people of Portugal (especially port wine!) attending and speaking on a panel at the Digital Wine Communications Conference in Logroño, Spain. What can I say? Paid work and real life have made time precious and stories and ideas fade. But there are themes. A lot of them have to do with the importance of wine grapes, biodiversity and people are important themes right now and many important and talented wine writers and bloggers have dedicated hours of research and time to them. At the dwcc I was fortunately enough to be able to attend the Native Iberian Varieties Grand Tasting led by Julia Harding MW and grape geneticist Dr. Jose Vouillamoz, co-authors-along with Jancis Robinson-of the wine tome, Wine Grapes.Like nearly any field on earth, the trade includes a lot of networking. I find this part of wine very tedious when not in the field or with wine makers. There are lot of people with a lot to say, but I think these old producers in out-of-the-way locations have the most to say, even if they don’t say a lot. Recently I attending a natural wine dinner with the rest of my colleagues at The Rome Digest and we ran into wine maker Damiano Ciolli. He is such a nice salt-of-the-earth guy and has the heaviest ciociaria accent I have ever heard. He makes two different types of wines, both made from Lazio’s autochthonousgrape Cesanese. To be honest, he looked kind of bored and a little bit like a fish out of water. I have seen this a lot lately. We take clients to small wineries, or I join a group of wine professionals and visit wineries or go to tastings and people are making a big fuss over the wine makers. Of course they merit a fuss. They make our beloved beverage. But I often see the confusion in their eyes. Eyes that say, “It’s just wine.” But perhaps they don’t understand how we can admire a person who didn’t rip out his grandfather’s vineyard of mixed local varieties to plant Merlot. I meet old farmers all the time who have no idea what is growing in their vineyard. They are just doing what has always been done in old communities. On our way out of the natural wine dinner, we ran into Damiano who seemed to be hiding outside despite the cold. I think he said one of the wisest things I have heard anyone say in the past few months:”][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”I am just doing what my grandfather did.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Indeed. More to come on that in the near future.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2152″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Local Laziale Wine Grape Cesanese”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]
Categories
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Back in a Few…

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Sorry folks about the lack of posts. I have had two computer meltdowns in the past month and I am trying to reorganize files plus work. The good news is that I recently bought myself a present: a new DSLR camera! So my photos should improve. Like this awesome photo I took while eating in a town called Olevano Romano:”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2126″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″]
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Beyond Rome: The Products of Lazio

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”BEYOND ROME: THE PRODUCTS OF LAZIO”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2056″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″]

3/5 of a whole

Last week I joined HandeIrene and Theo for a fun evening of wine and oil tasting hosted by AIS.  The theme for the evening was Lazio.  As a Lazio food and wine aficionado I was looking forward to trying products from producers I had never tried before.
Most of the wine producers I was already familiar with, but there were a few surprises.  I arrived late, so the event was already fueled by inebriated people.  I think we spent more time talking than tasting, but it was a good time, and I got to taste olive oil from 2000+ year old olive trees.

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[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Casale della Ioria is my favorite Cesanese del Piglio producer. Their Passerina is incredible”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

I caught up with them by making the rounds of Frascati.  No surprises on that account.  Frascati is one of my favorite wines, but you know, been there done that.   I still haven’t had a better Frascati than what is made by the cantina Castel de Paolis.

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”THAT color. Nice.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

While many people flocked to the Casale del Giglio table, we decided to concentrate our efforts on the Cesanese grape and there were some wonderful surprises.  Cesanese is a local grape that is native to Lazio.  Most famous in Cesanese del Piglio, it is a grape that has a lot of potential.  It does well in the volcanic soils of Lazio, has lovely dark fruit aromas and can be very expressive and complex.  Some of the producers really know how to handle this native grape, and others failed by using way too much wood.  I am not a fan of wines that have an offensive amount of oak.  I like to get a sense of the grape, the terroir and the winemaker’s skills.  I suppose you could say that overusing oak is an indication of lack of winemaking skills, but then again, many winemakers make a variety of products for different audiences.  The international palate likes big, jammy fruit bomb with lots of sweet and spicy aromas from oak.  New World style.  Me?  I like a wine with depth and layers.   Oak should be like makeup.  Minimal use to enhance beauty that is already there, not to cover up perceived flaws.

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[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Gorgeous Olevano Romano by Damiano Ciolli. Wonderful. They were very lively.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

The event wasn’t a serious tasting.  We had fun and had the opportunity to meet some producers that give me a sense of hope for the future of Lazio in the world of wine.  I even met a neighbor that lives less about 500m away from me and where they make easy to drink wines and lovely olive oil.  Funny that I walk by their property quite often and I’ve never said hello.  I volunteered myself to help with the harvest at my favorite wine producers of the evening, Damiano Ciolli.

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”A very special olive oil”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

Though I have my disagreements with AIS and their method, I am happy that they host events like this.  Having so many producers in one place rather than having to go out and search for them myself is really useful.

Did I mention I tasted olive oil made from trees that are over 2000 years old?  Where am I?

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