Category: Our News

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Int’l Wine Tourism Conference in Tbilisi, Georgia

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Magical Tbilisi”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”8″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”At the end of March 2014, I participated in the International Wine Tourism Conference that took place in Tbilisi in the Republic of Georgia. I spoke about wine tourism in Lazio and also participated in a panel on Social Media with fantastic colleagues. The highlight of the conference was the opportunity to participate in a familiarization media trip organized by the National Wine Agency in Georgia. The program began two days before the conference and included a post conference visit to the Kakheti wine region. The program took us to a variety of wineries ranging from a Soviet era factory specializing in sparkling wine, to tasting the gorgeous qvevri wines made by the Alaverdi monk and learning about their 1000+ year wine making heritage, and then having the honor of joining the Sullivans as they opened their qvevri at the Twin’s WineCellar in Kakheti.A number of my fellow participants have written excellent articles about the trip and conference that offer the reader more in depth notes. Check out Vines and Designs, My Custard Pie, Just the Bottle and the most moving piece by Allison Markin about finding her Georgian family. Conferences like this have a lot to offer those of us in wine tourism, we can learn from our peers, get to know an otherwise unknown region to us and of course the networking opportunities alone are worth the ticket price. Being in the Republic of Georgia taught me a lot about one aspect of wine tourism that is often overlooked and that is the art of hospitality. Wine tourism should take the guest beyond the wine. I spoke about this briefly in the limited time I had for my presentation. Wine tour guests are not wine professionals for the most part. They are people on vacation that have an interest in wine and food. Our job is to highlight the local wine AND the region while making our guests feel comfortable and happy. Georgians have truly mastered the art of hospitality and I would advise anyone in the hospitality or service industry to visit Georgia to understand this. I was so impressed with Georgia I have returned since the conference, started a #DailyGeorgia post on my instagram feed and I have two upcoming trips planned. I will participate in this year’s harvest and see for myself the magic of qvevri wine making. I am looking forward to the next Interantional Wine Tourism Conference in Champagne, France!”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”80″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2228″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”photo by Sally Prosser (@mycustardpie”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2255″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”At the Tbilisi market”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2258″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”A local bar”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2257″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”My great friend and winelover Irakli”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2264″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Local politcal graffiti”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2263″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Mako and Eko pouring Italian wine into a vessel from 1600 BC”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2267″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Eko’s Tsolikouri”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2266″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Street art in Tbilisi”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2271″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Our guide Dushenko”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2272″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Me with the Caucasus in the background”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2275″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Gorgeous”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2274″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Sinaghi in Kakheti”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2276″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Georgian cats are just as grumpy as cats elsewhere on earth”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2277″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Turkish coffee with Daniel”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2279″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Vineyards and mountains”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2280″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Signs of vines EVERYWHERE”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2282″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Freshly foraged wild greens”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2281″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Puri”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2285″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Opening a qvevri”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2284″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Qvevri”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2287″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Alaverdi”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2286″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Texas”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2289″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”At Twin’s Wine Cellar”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2288″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Qvevri”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2291″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Qvevri”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2292″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Oh the Caucasus must be the most beautiful mountain range on earth”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2296″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Tbilisi Sulfur Baths”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″ nd_options_image=”2295″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”IWINETC panel on Social Media”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2300″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”At Eko Glonti’s house”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″ nd_options_image=”2299″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Georgian wine makes one do silly things”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2304″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”With new friends”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″ nd_options_image=”2301″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”At Vino Underground in Tbilisi”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2307″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”My partners in crime”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″ nd_options_image=”2306″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Les Vignerons”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2307″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”My partners in crime”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″ nd_options_image=”2306″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Les Vignerons”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″ nd_options_image=”2310″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Beautiful people”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”45″]
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Categories
Our News

Churchkhela, Puri and Mzhave Niori at the Tbilisi Market

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Tbilisi Food Market”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”I’ll admit that the primary reason I decided to join the International Wine Tourism Conference in Tbilisi,Georgia was for the location. For a few years now, I had been wanting to discover for myself the rich wine and culinary culture of Georgia. I narrowly missed the DWCC post-conference trip from Izmir in 2012, and had had tentative plans to visit in 2013, but life got in the way and it just never happened. In the interim, I studied the food and wine of Georgia and planned itineraries in my head. Travel information was scarce and mostly related to mountains and hiking, and the guidebooks tended towards pathetic regarding food and wine information. So, when I saw the announcement that the 2014 IWINETC conference would be held in Georgia and they were looking for bloggers and speakers, I jumped at the opportunity. My speech was accepted and I managed to join the pre- and post-conference media trip as well. I was very excited to join fellow food and wine lovers in the birthplace of wine. When I received the tour itinerary I was slightly disheartened to see that a visit to the Tbilisi market I had been reading, studying and dreaming about was not included on the schedule. But that would not deter me. I had a few hours of free time so I decided I would go on my own…even though I had yet to fully understand the concept of Georgian hospitality. When you read in guide books that Georgians believe, “A guest is a gift from God,” it is not lip service. From taxi drivers to invitations to homes, I was almost embarrassed by the level of hospitality in Georgia-knowing that I could never reciprocate in the same way. A week before the trip, I posted on the Wine and Culinary Tourism page on Facebook that I was looking for a guide and almost as soon as I posted, I got a reply that a guide would be waiting in the lobby at 10:30 am on the day of my arrival. I invited my fellow FAM trippers and the lovely guide Mariam met us in the lobby, threw us in cab and gave us our first view of the city. Of course, that view was seen while swerving in and out of the congested Tbilisi traffic until we arrived at the market about 10 minutes later.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”50″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2213″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Churchkhela at the Tbilisi MarketAt this point I am sure I will start to sound like a living foodie cliché, so forgive me. The Tbilisi market needs to be included in any visitor’s itinerary. It was an explosion of colors, flavors and aromas. Before going I was mostly curious about the walnuts, fruits, pickles and Churchchela,strings of nuts dipped in grape concentrate, otherwise known as “Georgian candy.” The vendors were gracious and kindly let us sample their products. They were more than happy to explain the use of various seasons and spices such as the marigold and fenugreek powder, plum sauces and garlic salt. It was a sensory overload.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2214″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Spice vendor explaining how to use the marigold and fenugreek powderMy favorite “discovery” was learning that like Italians, Georgians have a long-standing tradition and passion for wild food ranging from foraged edible weeds, wild thyme (so good!), mushrooms and fermented or pickled foods. I tasted fermented cabbage, whole fermented garlic (Mzhave Niori), fermented wild greens and wild leeks. As an advocate for home fermentation, I was overwhelmed by the range of pickled goods available. There was so much variety; anything edible was pickled. I bought fermented garlic and the strong aroma followed me all the way back home. Pickled vegetables were available at every meal we had during our trip and without paying too much attention to the health benefits, we unintentionally aided the digestion of some of the heavier Georgian foods. Fermented foods are true Super Foods. I am sure my travel mates got tired of me exclaiming, “Oh my god, I love pickles!” at every meal, but I couldn’t contain myself. I really, really love pickles. Good to know that they pair perfectly with the strong Chacha, a beverage similar to vodka that is made from the leftovers of the wine.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2215″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Fermented products at the Tbilisi MarketPickles weren’t the only product that excited me. Churchkhela, the sausage shaped delicious strings of nuts that have been dipped in grape concentrate and flour were a delight. They were sweet enough to satisfy a sweet tooth but not cloyingly so. They’d be great on a hike instead of premixed trail mix. They were simple and delicious, and the one food product I wish I had bought more of. I also loved the wild honey that was sold in used pickled jars alongside different bee products such as pollen and propolis, as well as honeycomb. I took pollen every day while in Georgia as an immunity boost and—despite sleeping an average of three hours a night—I managed to stay energetic and healthy throughout the trip.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2216″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Honey in used pickle jarsI not only sampled these products, also I learned about local baking techniques. The market had surprises around every corner. Mariam took us inside a small bakery where there were shelves of long pointed bread called puri and the delicious aroma of yeast and wood fire. The oven was not in the wall but in the earth in the form of a cylindrical clay tub that resembled a well. These ovens are called tone. After the dough has risen, been kneaded and been rolled, it is not put in a pan or on a shelf for baking. Instead, it is pressed up against the inner wall of the tone. I had never seen this baking process before and found it fascinating. It was yet another link that Georgian food and wine has to the earth and clay vessels.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
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Gorgeous photo of Churchkhela and fruit by Sally Prosser (@mycustardpie)

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[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”The “tone” photo by Sally Prosser at www.mycustardpie.com”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”The aromas, colors and flavors are now imprinted on my heart and palate. I am so glad we visited the market before we started our trip. All of the food we tasted and all the meals we shared were made richer by the market experience. Understanding the food and the source of that food is an important part of traveling. At the Georgian table each meal is perfectly balanced between salty, sour, sweet, bitter and umami. Visiting the market gave me a much better understanding of the Georgian kitchen and what we could expect over the next nine days. The Tbilisi Market is truly a can’t-miss for food lovers, people interested in a more authentic experience in Georgia, proponents of slow food, real food and people who want to eat like our ancestors. Markets are always great venues to experience of the bounty of the region, and this market is no exception. I learned that the Georgian food culture is real. It has not yet been corrupted by mass production and industrialization. I certainly hope that the Georgians take pride in this and protect it. These pockets of real food culture have almost disappeared in some places and are limited to the elite in others. Food is culture, and in Georgia the culture is rich. My next visit to Georgia will include an extra suitcase for more edible souvenirs. Check out my friend Sally Prosser’s blog post on the market here Thank you Sally, Rowena and Erin for letting me include some of your photos in the blog post!Check out their blogs/posts on Georgia!”][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”My Custard Pie-Sally Prosser Apron and Sneakers-Rowena Dumlao-Giardina Vines and Designs-Erin Korpisto For more on Georgian wine, check out posts by Sarah Abbot MW here and here”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2227″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Mzhave Niori (fermented garlic)”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2230″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”photo by Sally Prosser (@mycustardpie”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2231″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Me with some puri (bread) photo by Rowena Dumlao-Giardina (@ApronSneakers)”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2232″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Jars of raw honey”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2233″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Bee products”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2236″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Our lovely guide Mariam speaking with a Churchkhela vendor”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2235″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”The baker taking fresh puri out of the tone”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_image=”2240″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_350″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”5″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Our guide Mariam (second from right) patiently explaining everything to us. Photo by Erin Korpisto (@vinesanddesigns)”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”70″]
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Georgia: Here Wine Lives

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”I had the honor of visiting the Republic of Georgia for the International Wine Tourism Conference in Tbilisi last week. Very few places have impressed me as much or left me with so much desire to come back that I feel pain. Georgia is the cradle of wine. Wine in Georgia is a tradition of place and of people. Through the ages and through invasions and oppression the people persevered through wine. The vine (there are over 500 indigenous grape types) is the symbol of both country and people and grape motifs are everywhere. What makes Georgia so fascinating is that their own style wine making has survived. This ancient heritage of Qvevri is now protected and recognized by UNESCO.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Watch this short video on the ancient tradition of Qvervi making.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”25″]
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Antiqua Tours in Tbilisi, Georgia

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Antiqua Tours in Tbilisi, Georgia”][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”By Taste Georgia”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2207″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Photo courtesy of Anthony Swift at Wine Pleasures”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”At the end of March, I will be speaking at the 6th Annual International Wine Tourism Conference which will be held in the beautiful city of Tbilisi, Georgia 29-30 March, 2014. I will be speaking about the culture of wine, wine as culture, and the people who make the wine integral to this very special culture. I hope to demonstrate to my audience how people in wine tourism can/should include the overall history and culture of a region as a selling point for their wine tours, especially in unknown or unfamiliar regions. Wine-loving clients have often already been to wineries and want to experience something unique. After a while something many of us experience is something I call, “barrel overload.” Yes, technical questions are important, but what makes a winery special is often its relevance in the culture or its history. Except for a few tweaks here and there, most wineries start to look and feel the same. So what can we do differently?I am going to discuss these points and hope to relay the information as a Socratic seminar rather than lecture about what I think people should do. I plan to talk specifically about the region I am passionate about: Lazio as a wine region. Lazio has a wealth of indigenous grape varieties, terroir, and an incredible number of traditions surrounding wine. My talk will integrate points about both the culture of wine and wine as culture with Lazio epitomizing a region overlooked for its incredible wine potential and wine heritage for the sake of a major city, Rome.I am also excited to meet colleagues and learn how I can improve our services for Antiqua Tours guests. After all, our guests are usually on holiday and at the end of the day, all they want is to experience fantastic wine, food, and culture. If you are attending the conference, please stop by my seminar. From the conference programme:”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Wine as CultureAn overview of the importance of local cultural heritage in visiting a wine region. Case Study of Lazio. We will discuss why the humanities and people of a region as important to experiencing a wine region as the vines and wines themselves. People as Terroir (wine makers, local farmers, visiting nearby towns) and as an example we will talk about the Lazio wine region and getting visitors beyond Rome for a well rounded cultural experience which includes people, wine, food and cultural heritage. Why wine is not enough in wine tours. Learn why cultural heritage can sometimes sell wine regions, especially in unknown regions. And most importantly: Be a cultural ambassador to your region! March 29, Session 1.4 at 16:00 in Queen Tamar”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]
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My Top 9 of 2013

[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2179″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Well, another year has passed and it seems fitting to list some of my top wine, craft beer and food moments of 2013. Studies and the success of sites like BuzzFeed show that people respond positively to lists, so I have decided to end 2013 with a new feature on my blog, and that is The Top 9. Why 9 and not some other arbitrary number? The obvious reason is my love of cats and the fact that they have 9 lives, so 9 it is.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2185″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”A tasting of fortified wines during a WSET class”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”9. Discovering I actually love dry Sherries like Fino and Manzanilla. Actually considering my love of rotten, fermented food and my passion for Kombucha brewing, lacto-fermentation and yeast in general, it is no wonder I have a newfound appreciation for FLOR, which infuses wonderful nutty notes to these often salty wines that are perfect with olives (another lacto-fermented food I make).”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2186″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”GianMarco and his lovely dirt”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”8. Visiting one of my favorite Laziale wine producer’s for Katie Parla’s birthday. Gianmarco Antonuzi of Le Coste gave us an in-depth tour of his vineyards, showing us the health and life of the soil, the young bush trained vines and then taking us to the cellar where we tasted many different wines from the barrel for about two hours. Gianmarco can easily be described as a wine anarchist and a hardcore naturalist. No compromising, ever. Lazio is a region of incredible potential, and Gianmarco is the poster child of natural wine making in Lazio if not all of Italy. A true visionary.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2202″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Umbria wine Master class with Patrick Farrell, MD, MW”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”7. Participating in the first #winelover anniversary wine weekend over Valentine’s weekend in Umbria. We tasted some interesting wines and I met a great group of people that share a passion for wine. Cool wine friends are always welcome!”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2191″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Picking grapes, 2013″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”6. Participating in my third grape harvest and helping make Roèt. Since Roèt is essentially a field blend it is difficult to say how much of each variety is in the wine. This year, as I picked grapes, I got to know each grape and was able to identify them. This still doesn’t help me with my next-to-zero math skills.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2182″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Flora and my favorite beer”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”5. Finally getting over my hatred of hipsters in San Diego and embracing the craft beer scene thanks to my best friend Hanna. We enjoyed amazing raw, unfiltered sour beer from all over the West Coast. My favorites came from California wine making region the Russian River Valley and Oregon. Another thing I discovered- in beer- Brettanomyces is delicious. My favorite beer on sour beer night was the Logston Seizoen Brett Farmhouse Ale from Oregon. I could drink this beer for days.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2195″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”TRD at DWCC”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”4. Launching The Rome Digest in March with Gina, Irene, Katie and Hande. It has been an extremely positive experience and feedback from the community has been great. Along with launching TRD, we spoke on blog collaboration at the Digital Wine CommunicationsConference in Spain, which was, of course, a huge honor.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2196″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Soul mates?”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”3. Meeting and bonding with Dora and Patrizia of Poderi Sanguineto I and II. Not only do they make wonderful, earthy Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, they are real salt-of-the.earth people. They make honest, traditional Tuscan wines which are a rarity amoung today’s overly-polished wines of the region. They also have dozens of cats and Patrizia and I bonded over our great love of cats. She offered me a cat and introduced me to her favorite queen, a very”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2188″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”old and noble lady. I fell in love with these endearing women. Kopke’s 1940 Colheita Tawny Port2. Port wine. We were chosen to participate in a press trip host by Greengrape through the Douro Valley in October pre dwccwith some fellow delegates. What can I say? I fell in love. Vinho Verde, Port Wine, Douro Doc are all fantastic. The Douro Valley is a place of extreme beauty, ancient history, gorgeous wine and unique terrior. I had the opportunity to taste many different types of port from Vintage to Ruby to LBV to Tawny to the benchmark 2011. The look like jewels in a glass. The most incredible wine I tasted during our trip in Portugal was Kopke’s 1940 Colheita Tawny Port. (An entire post will be dedicated to this trip) This is a special edition wine to celebrate 375 years of the oldest Port Wine House. Only 375 bottles were produced. It was an ethereal and delicious moment.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2184″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”My love…”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”18″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”1. And last but not least, it should be no surprise for those who have joined the cult of Fiorano. My number one wine, food or beer moment of 2013 was at my birthday dinner. Ettore and I shared a 1975 Fiorano Semillon Vino da Tavola. These wines are the world’s greatest wines and fairly unknown except to a few crazy cultish people. Another great example of the incredible potential of Lazio as a wine making region. Let’s get beyond cheap Frascati in 2014!”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”35″]
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On Grapes and Grandfathers

[nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2170″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Damiano Ciolli in his element”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”I have not been a particularly active blogger in the past few months despite attending many interesting tastings, several visits to wineries throughout central Italy, participating in a press trip to Port and the Douro Valley and falling in love with the wines and people of Portugal (especially port wine!) attending and speaking on a panel at the Digital Wine Communications Conference in Logroño, Spain. What can I say? Paid work and real life have made time precious and stories and ideas fade. But there are themes. A lot of them have to do with the importance of wine grapes, biodiversity and people are important themes right now and many important and talented wine writers and bloggers have dedicated hours of research and time to them. At the dwcc I was fortunately enough to be able to attend the Native Iberian Varieties Grand Tasting led by Julia Harding MW and grape geneticist Dr. Jose Vouillamoz, co-authors-along with Jancis Robinson-of the wine tome, Wine Grapes.Like nearly any field on earth, the trade includes a lot of networking. I find this part of wine very tedious when not in the field or with wine makers. There are lot of people with a lot to say, but I think these old producers in out-of-the-way locations have the most to say, even if they don’t say a lot. Recently I attending a natural wine dinner with the rest of my colleagues at The Rome Digest and we ran into wine maker Damiano Ciolli. He is such a nice salt-of-the-earth guy and has the heaviest ciociaria accent I have ever heard. He makes two different types of wines, both made from Lazio’s autochthonousgrape Cesanese. To be honest, he looked kind of bored and a little bit like a fish out of water. I have seen this a lot lately. We take clients to small wineries, or I join a group of wine professionals and visit wineries or go to tastings and people are making a big fuss over the wine makers. Of course they merit a fuss. They make our beloved beverage. But I often see the confusion in their eyes. Eyes that say, “It’s just wine.” But perhaps they don’t understand how we can admire a person who didn’t rip out his grandfather’s vineyard of mixed local varieties to plant Merlot. I meet old farmers all the time who have no idea what is growing in their vineyard. They are just doing what has always been done in old communities. On our way out of the natural wine dinner, we ran into Damiano who seemed to be hiding outside despite the cold. I think he said one of the wisest things I have heard anyone say in the past few months:”][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”I am just doing what my grandfather did.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Indeed. More to come on that in the near future.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2152″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text_align=”center” nd_options_text=”Local Laziale Wine Grape Cesanese”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]
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Back in a Few…

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”p” nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Sorry folks about the lack of posts. I have had two computer meltdowns in the past month and I am trying to reorganize files plus work. The good news is that I recently bought myself a present: a new DSLR camera! So my photos should improve. Like this awesome photo I took while eating in a town called Olevano Romano:”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2126″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″]
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Beyond Rome: The Products of Lazio

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”BEYOND ROME: THE PRODUCTS OF LAZIO”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_image nd_options_align=”center” nd_options_image=”2056″ nd_options_width=”100%” nd_options_class=”adaptive_image_550″]

3/5 of a whole

Last week I joined Hande, Irene and Theo for a fun evening of wine and oil tasting hosted by AIS.  The theme for the evening was Lazio.  As a Lazio food and wine aficionado I was looking forward to trying products from producers I had never tried before.
Most of the wine producers I was already familiar with, but there were a few surprises.  I arrived late, so the event was already fueled by inebriated people.  I think we spent more time talking than tasting, but it was a good time, and I got to taste olive oil from 2000+ year old olive trees.

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[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Casale della Ioria is my favorite Cesanese del Piglio producer. Their Passerina is incredible”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

I caught up with them by making the rounds of Frascati.  No surprises on that account.  Frascati is one of my favorite wines, but you know, been there done that.   I still haven’t had a better Frascati than what is made by the cantina Castel de Paolis.

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”THAT color. Nice.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

While many people flocked to the Casale del Giglio table, we decided to concentrate our efforts on the Cesanese grape and there were some wonderful surprises.  Cesanese is a local grape that is native to Lazio.  Most famous in Cesanese del Piglio, it is a grape that has a lot of potential.  It does well in the volcanic soils of Lazio, has lovely dark fruit aromas and can be very expressive and complex.  Some of the producers really know how to handle this native grape, and others failed by using way too much wood.  I am not a fan of wines that have an offensive amount of oak.  I like to get a sense of the grape, the terroir and the winemaker’s skills.  I suppose you could say that overusing oak is an indication of lack of winemaking skills, but then again, many winemakers make a variety of products for different audiences.  The international palate likes big, jammy fruit bomb with lots of sweet and spicy aromas from oak.  New World style.  Me?  I like a wine with depth and layers.   Oak should be like makeup.  Minimal use to enhance beauty that is already there, not to cover up perceived flaws.

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[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”Gorgeous Olevano Romano by Damiano Ciolli. Wonderful. They were very lively.”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

The event wasn’t a serious tasting.  We had fun and had the opportunity to meet some producers that give me a sense of hope for the future of Lazio in the world of wine.  I even met a neighbor that lives less about 500m away from me and where they make easy to drink wines and lovely olive oil.  Funny that I walk by their property quite often and I’ve never said hello.  I volunteered myself to help with the harvest at my favorite wine producers of the evening, Damiano Ciolli.

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”A very special olive oil”][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

Though I have my disagreements with AIS and their method, I am happy that they host events like this.  Having so many producers in one place rather than having to go out and search for them myself is really useful.

Did I mention I tasted olive oil made from trees that are over 2000 years old?  Where am I?

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Future Wine Lovers

[nd_options_text nd_options_text_tag=”h3″ nd_options_text_weight=”normal” nd_options_text=”MY WONDERFUL STUDENTS AFTER OUR LAST CLASS! <3″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″][nd_options_divider nd_options_align=”nd_options_text_align_left” nd_options_width=”30px” nd_options_height=”2px” nd_options_color=”#f1f1f1″][nd_options_spacer nd_options_height=”20″]

Sometimes, only sometimes, we encounter young people that are extraordinary. These people give us old people hope for the future. In this case, my last group of wine students was so fantastic, smart and talented I wanted to cry when I said goodbye. As a group they were inquisitive about the overall culture of wine and its place in Italian culture in general. They studied, did awesome and creative projects and, in the end, I was the one learning from them. I’ve been a grumpy youth hater for far too long. I guess it is just disheartening that many college age students cannot put a sentence together, seem disinterested in the world around them, are plugged into their devices but tuned out of the world around them. Not so this group. They were articulate, funny, knowledgeable and open to new experiences. Their energy was infectious. These are the future wine lovers of America, and we as wine professionals need to embrace their curiosity, open ourselves to learning about innovative and new happenings in the wine world. They are coming out into the world with more wine knowledge than most 20-21 year olds; they’ve made the connection between wine and local culture, wine and health, wine and finance, and, their place in this world. My students met my colleagues and they were all impressed. As my friend Hande from Vino Roma said about one in particular, “That boy renowned my belief in the future – so good to know there are 21 yr. olds (well, at least one!) out there who are smart, athletic, artistically inclined & talented, well-behaved… and good looking 😉 The human kind shall persevere!” Indeed!In Frascati

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If you guys are reading this, bless you all.  You ALL have rehabilitated my faith in the future.

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Wonderful fruity aromas

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Tastes like Puglia

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Mr. Champagne with the ladies