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A Rose by any other name is Rkatsiteli?

Georgia for wine lovers

By Taste Georgia

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In the first week of May 2017, I joined a group of wine and travel writers, social media influencers and sommeliers and traveled around Georgia for five days on a Familiarisation trip organised in part by the National Georgian Wine Agency, National Georgian Tourism Agency and Taste Georgia. It was a trip organised around the 2017 edition of the New Wine Festival. I enjoy wine festivals and fairs because there are a large amount of producers in one place which gives wine professionals like myself the opportunity to discover new wines.

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One of my favorite discoveries was the 2016 Chateau Khashmi “Rkatsiteli Vardo,” which is made from a pink clone of Rkatsiteli, officially known as Rkatsiteli Vardisperi. Vardisperi means pink in Georgian.

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In a sea of mediocre wines, this was a wine that stood out because it was well made, clean and expressive. It is also rare, which adds to its appeal. Most of the wines at the fair were good, and I loved seeing so many new faces and seeing so many young people embracing Georgia’s wine culture. However, sometimes new means inexperienced and that often translated into wines that were mousey, Bretty and sometimes not drinkable. For me, drinkability is of the utmost importance. When I taste a new wine, I love that feeling that makes me say, ” I want to drink more of this,” and I find myself imaging what I would eat with it.
And so it was with this wine.

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One of my favorite discoveries was the 2016 Chateau Khashmi “Rkatsiteli Vardo,” which is made from a pink clone of Rkatsiteli, officially known as Rkatsiteli Vardisperi. Vardisperi means pink in Georgian.And so it was with this wine.

One of my favorite discoveries was the 2016 Chateau Khashmi “Rkatsiteli Vardo,” which is made from a pink clone of Rkatsiteli, officially known as Rkatsiteli Vardisperi. Vardisperi means pink in Georgian.

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In a sea of mediocre wines, this was a wine that stood out because it was well made, clean and expressive. It is also rare, which adds to its appeal. Most of the wines at the fair were good, and I loved seeing so many new faces and seeing so many young people embracing Georgia’s wine culture. However, sometimes new means inexperienced and that often translated into wines that were mousey, Bretty and sometimes not drinkable. For me, drinkability is of the utmost importance. When I taste a new wine, I love that feeling that makes me say, ” I want to drink more of this,” and I find myself imaging what I would eat with it.
And so it was with this wine.

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I was able to catch up with George Kokrashvili, the winemaker at Chateau Khashmi, to learn more about their Rkatsiteli Vardo wine. He told me that Rkatsiteli Vardo is a natural clone of the grape variety Rkatsiteli. The history of this variety began during the 1948 harvest when workers picking Rkatsiteli grapes discovered that there were pink coloured grapes on some of vine. This was reported to the vine institutions and examinations started. The DNA color mutation was confirmed by Dr. Loladze. The majority of Georgian ampelographers agree that it is a clone of Rkatsiteli and not a separate variety. He also added, “The difference between ordinary Rkatsiteli and Rose Rkatsiteli is not only colour. Rose Rkatsiteli has richer aromas, depth and taste.”And so it was with this wine.

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Despite its potential, the variety is not well spread, and can be only found in very low quantities. Mr. Kokrashvili discovered this variety during a conversation with an organicgrape grower and decided to buy he entire harvest. It was a tiny amount. Only 235 kilos!

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Sometimes a passion project comes in a small package. George understood the potential of the grape variety but hesitated due to the small amount available and its marketability.

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He says, “When I tasted grapes of this variety, it was amazing. It had the taste of Rkatsiteli (which is my favourite grape variety), but had very intense taste, that lasted almost 10-15 minutes on my palate.
Then came the period of hesitation. When I told my plan to make this wine to my friends, and consultants everyone told me that this grape had no future, because it was too rare, and that I could not expand my production. They told me that if people liked my wine, it would finish too soon that would be bad for the brand name. There would also be problems in distribution.”

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He faced a chorus of naysayers, it seems. It is a family project, and so he turned to his wife Tamar who advised him.
She told him, “George, we want to do premium natural wines, we are not looking only at the brand and revenues. Forget about business this time and let’s do a great wine that people will love. If the market and distributors will not accept it in such low quantities, we will drink it. It not a big quantity. Do it for me.” And so, his wife pushed him in the right direction.

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They make the wines naturally, using low intervention techniques including spontaneous fermentation, no filtration or clarification. The wines are made from selected grapes which are sorted after harvest. Only the best organic grapes will make it into the qvevri. The make all of their wines in the traditional Kakhetian way. Long maceration in qvevri, which produce beautiful and expressive wines.

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Chateau Khashmi is located in Kakheti They produced only 130 bottles of the Rkatsiteli Vardo in 2016 and they have only 30 bottles left.

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Tasting Notes

This wine is a light golden hue which hints at a pinkish tone. On the nose it is full of fresh apricot, orange peel, dried figs, white flowers with notes of hazelnuts. It has a complexity of primary and secondary aromas, that are youthful and full of potential. On the palate it is very powerful both at the front and mid palate. It is quite fresh, the apricot is quite obvious, with nutty flavours. It is very clean, with a great structure. Long, fresh, finish that leaves the palate with a hint of sapidity. Delicious, complex and could pair with a variety of foods. I’d suggest dishes that include tarragon.

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Update: Both Dr. José Vouillamoz of Wine Grapes and Georgian winemaker Ramaz Nikoladze were quick to point at that Rkatsiteli Vardo is not the name of the wine grape, the official name is Rkatsiteli Vardisperi.

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Ettore in the Vineyards

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Ettore knows he way around a vineyard.  My much loved and missed intern Katie took these photos of him.

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Frascati Vineyards

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Wine Tour con Ettore

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Wine Wednesday: Be Wild, Be Otskhanuri Sapere

Wine Wednesday: Be Wild, Be Otskhanuri Sapere

By Taste Georgia

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Otskhanuri Sapere might always remain a bit on the obscure side simply because it very name is difficult to pronounce for anglophones. In fact, perhaps I need to start a series on Georgian wine grape pronunciation.

Otskhanuri Sapere is a red wine grape from the west Georgian region of Imereti. According to grape experts, it is a transitional variety, a hybrid if you will, between wild and domesticated varieties. This may account for its often gamey aromas.

This week, my wine of the week is a qvevri made 2013 Lagvinari Otskhanuri Sapere. Lagvinari founder Eko Glonti produced this wine from organic vineyards and then fermented in traditional Imeretian qvevri. I first tried this wine in its infancy, in the spring of 2014, and it was difficult and quite rough with lots of bramble and meaty notes that hadn’t really integrated. I kind of brushed it off and decided I didn’t like this variety. But then I tasted it ever few months and over the past three years, it has be tamed; domesticated if you will.

Deeply hued and inky ruby/garner red. A beautiful, rich, earthy wine that explodes of aromas of black currant and black berry, meaty notes followed by earthy, mushrooms tones and even a hint of smokiness. On the palate it is high octane acidity, balanced by very smooth tannins and soft alcohol. Dry, fresh, well integrated and balanced with many years of life ahead of it. Delicious on its own. Elegant.

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Wine Wednesday: Purity in Chinuri

Wine Wednesday: Purity in Chinuri

By Taste Georgia

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Of all the wine producers in Georgia that I know and love, Beka Gotsadze of Gotsa Family Wines represents the future of Georgian natural wine. He makes multiple wines from different varieties, has low yielding vineyards at higher than average elevation, has Biodynamic certification, makes an ancestral sparkling wine AND is not afraid of a little Flor happily growing on his wine.

He thinks about wine much like the architect that he is. Always building o sturdy foundations. And, a rarity, he saves bottling for later. Most Georgian winemakers bottle wines when they open the qvevri and then put them on the market. It’s why you can see 2016s already in the market. No Beka. He allows his wines to mature before selling them.

I will write more on Beka in another post. His 2015 Chinuri is a marvel.  Indeed, it is the best qvevri wine I tasted from the 2015 vintage. Now, while I am a huge fan of the funky, heavy skin contact wines from Kakheti, the Chinuri, still amber and made “natural” in qvevri is by far one of the purest expressions of Chinuri I have had. It is full of complexity on the nose and in the palate and it is fun. Full of citrus peel, sage, hints of nutty aromas, wet alpine stones, green plums. With each swirl it becomes so much more lively. The taste is magic. Lots of citrus and mineral toy. It recalls the sound of pure church bells, racy acidity, well balanced alcohol and just a hint of tannins. A wine for food. Actually it reminds me of some of the best Petite Arvines from Switzerland.

We organise wine tasting dinners with the Gotsa Family Winery. His wife Nina is a fabulous host and it is always the highlight of my visits. Send us an email! Info@tastegeorgia.co

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Georgia is the cradle of wine

Georgia is the cradle of wine

By Taste Georgia

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In a study that was published on Monday, researchers lead by Dr Patrick McGovern, a molecular archaeologist from the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology and lead author of the study in the journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, discovered telltale signs of wine residue on pottery shards from two archaeological sites in Georgia that date back to 6000 B.C. these are the earliest findings to date of wine made from grapes.

This research definitively confirms the country of Georgia as the cradle of wine, with evidence dating back 8000 years.

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Instagram Live with Iago

Instagram Live with Iago

By Taste Georgia

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Please join @tastegeorgia and @iagos_winery this Saturday for a chat about wine, qvevri, Tinajas and more.
www.instagram.com/tastegeorgia

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Taste Georgia with Giorgi Natenadze

Please join me on the Taste Georgia Instagram for a chat with Giorgi Natenadze. I wrote an article about him in 2016 for Wine Sofa. Giorgi is one of the most interesting people in Georgian wine at the moment. He is a man with a mission, to restore his region’s wine culture and history. I’ve called him the Indian Jones of wine grapes. He treks through forests searching for lost grapes, he has discovered over 30 lost wine grapes. He has restored ancient terraces. He has a vine that is over 400 years old that makes the most poetic wine I’ve ever had. This will be a chat for all those wine geeks interested in wine history and wine grapes, and meeting someone doing the good work of restoration.

http://www.winesofa.eu/articles/natenadz

Saturday May 9th, 2020
13:00 EST 1PM NYC
19:00 CEST 7PM Rome
21:OO GST 9PM Tbilisi

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Instagram Live with Taste Georgia

Instagram Live with Taste Georgia

By Taste Georgia

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Keto Ninidze and Sarah May Grunwald
Please join Keto Ninidze and I this Saturday on Instagram Live for a discussion on natural wine, feminism in Georgia, permaculture, Adjika, and more.
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Wine Boutique in Tbilisi

Wine Boutique in Tbilisi

By Taste Georgia

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Wall of wine at Wine Boutique in Tbilisi

I recently had to come to Tbilisi for a span of a little less than three days. We had to sign documents at the Bank of Georgia. It was a last minute trip, so I didn’t have any real plans to do anything such as going out to Kakheti and visiting winemakers for wine tours or checking out whatever hot new restaurant has opened up. These inhumane hours that bring you in and out of Tbilisi are murder on your energy. I wanted to take it easy.

On Saturday night I joined friends for a producer tasting at the ten month old Wine Boutique, which is just up the street from Rooms Hotel. It’s a small wine ship with one large table and two smaller ones that can accommodate a nice group for wine tastings. We arrived early, and the first thing I notice is the amount of wines for sale at very reasonable prices. There are the usual classics, and a number of new producers.

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We enjoyed an interesting horizontal tasting of 2018 wines with Father Michael. He calls his winery Utskinari, which means humble in Georgian language. After a few minutes, we all understood why that name was so fitting. He presented each wine, and let the wines speak for themselves, a great skill in these days of social media shouting, and every winemaker clambering to get a piece of the action, unwilling to listen to critique. Father Michael allowed us, the drinkers, to decide for ourselves which wines we liked. It was fun to be a tasting of Amber qvevri wines with Georgians. After all, these wines are their heritage, they’ve been drinking them since time immemorial and they have am ease of description that doesn’t come so easy to those of us with formal Western wine education.

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After the tasting, when most of the people left, I stated behind with Irakli and then the bottles started popping. One of my favorite of the evening was a delicate Rkatsiteli from Tsarapi. Even though it was made in the traditional Kakhetian way (six months of skin contact), it didn’t have a heaviness to it that I often find to be the case with amber qvevri wines from Kakheti.

Giorgi Kobiashvili, the owner, explained that this was due to where it was grown, an area with clay and limestone soil that leant itself to a fresher, brighter wines that was more to my taste. I have always preferred the Amber wines of Imereti over Kakheti because they tend to be fresher and more elegant, so this was a great surprise for me.

It was great to be able to sample wines with knowledgeable people who were friendly and, if I am honest, a LOT of fun to spend time with. A great wine evening for me is one that lends itself to great conversation. Qvevri wines seem to facilitate a more philosphpibcal mindset.

If you are in Tbilisi, head on over to Wine Boutique, have a chat and buy some wine. Tell then Sarah from Taste Georgia send you, and he will give you a 10% discount.

Wine Boutique

17 Anastasia Eristav-Khoshtaria Street
0108 Tbilisi, Georgia

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Uplistsikhe: Discover one of the ancient cave towns of Georgia

Uplistsikhe: Discover one of the ancient cave towns of Georgia

By Taste Georgia

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By Baia Dzagnidze

Georgia boasts a diverse landscape. You can find high peaks of the Caucasus, a desert, colorful hills in Kakheti, gorgeous lakes, and medieval defense towers in rural regions to name a few. It also boasts with ancient cave towns – Vardzia, Uplistsikhe, and David Gareji. They are different from each other, both with the construction and the period it was built. In this post, we’ll discover the oldest one – Uplistsikhe. An ancient cave city that makes a great day tour from Tbilisi.

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What makes Uplistsikhe so special? Occupying 10 ha of land, it is the only remaining landmark in Georgia, which dates back to the Classical antiquity period. Located in Shida Kartli, around 9 km from the town of Gori, the area was a functioning town. It had streets, squares, irrigation pipes, various buildings, four gates, a secret tunnel to the Mtkvari river, and a defensive wall. Today, it serves as an open-air museum everyone can visit.

It’s believed that a mythical Uplos, the son of Mtskhetos and grandson of Kartlos, built Uplistiskhe in the 10th-6th century BC. In Georgian mythology, Kartlos is the eponymous ancestor of Georgians. Hence comes the name and translates as the “castle of Uplos.”

The legend has it that slaves built Uplistsikhe. They used metal pickaxes to curve the town. Underneath that metal was gold. They had to wear out the metal to get the gold and freedom.

According to the archaeological excavations and items found here, the town was inhabited during 16th-15th centuries BC. From the 4th century BC to 3rd century AD, Upliststikhe was a religious and administrative center of Kartli. But when Georgia adopted Christianity in the 4th century, the settlement in Uplistsikhe decreased. Thus, it still remained as a well-fortified castle.

The proximity to the main trade route of Georgia resulted in many invasions both from local kings and foreign nations. Conquering the town, meant ruling over the Kartli region.

 

In the 10th-13th centuries, Uplistsikhe was again restored into a town and the population equaled to almost 20,000 citizens. When Tbilisi became the capital of Georgia once again, the number of inhabitants reduced again. During the Mongol invasions in the 13th-14th centuries, Uplistsikhe was completely abandoned. Afterward, it was occasionally used as a shelter during other attacks in the country.

 

When visiting Uplistsikhe with Taste Georgia, you can wander through those ancient streets and buildings, imagining how life used to be back in the day. You can visit the rock-hewn halls, theater dating back to the 2nd century, the 6th-century basilica carved into the rock, and many more.  You can also walk through a small part of the 41-meter long secret tunnel, used during the invasions to supply it with water and food.

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Outside of the church, you’ll notice so-called sacrificed qvevries. When a child was born in the family, they stored wine in qvevri until he/she reached the age of 16. Then, the family would bring it to the church and leave right there.

 

How to get to Uplistsikhe: Taste Georgia arranges day trips to Uplistsikhe that include the Stalin Museum in Gori. If you are traveling on your own and planning on using public transport, then you’ll first need to get to the town of Gori. Minibuses, marshrutkas, run daily every half an hour from Didube Bus Station. The journey takes around one hour. Then, you’ll need to take another marshrutka towards Kvakhvreli village. Tell the driver to drop you off at the road leading to Uplistsikhe. From here, you’ll need to walk around 2 km to get to the box office and entrance of the museum. You can easily do everything in a day, making Uplistsikhe a great day trip destination from Tbilisi.

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19 Reasons to Visit Georgia in 2019

19 Reasons to Visit Georgia in 2019

By Taste Georgia

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We asked our local blogger what are her favorite reasons to visit Georgia in 2019.

By Baia Dzagnidze

Georgia has been an up and coming destination recently. Each year, top travel magazines are promoting it as one of the spots to explore in that year. While there are many more reasons for you to visit Georgia in 2019, we decided to narrow it down to top 19.

 

1.Budget Destination

Despite the huge increase in tourists coming to Georgia, it still is considered to be a budget-friendly destination, where everything you can imagine is very affordable. We are talking not only about food, wine, and public transportation but also accommodation as well. There are plenty of hotels, hostels, and apartments. How cheap you might ask? Well, you can rent a whole one bedroom apartment for $30 a night on Airbnb! Some are even cheaper and most of them are located within the city center.

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2. Luxurious Experience

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For those of you who are not looking for budget travel, Georgia offers luxurious experience too. There are many resort-like hotels with international standards to make your holiday here as much fancier as it can be. However, don’t expect villas with infinity pools you might have seen or been to in South East Asia.

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Georgian cuisine

Georgian cuisine is as diverse as its nature. Each region of the country has its own distinguished meal and a variety of Khachapuri, a pizza-like cheese pie. Meals are heavy on dought, fat, meat, and walnuts, however, there are several plant-based meals to satisfy any vegetarian. Food tours are a great way to experience Georgia.

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4. Georgia is the birthplace of wine

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Qvevri maker in Kakheti, Georgia

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Not that long ago, Georgia broke World Guinness Records by being the very first country to produce wine in the world. Scholars have found wine residue left on qvevri during the archeological excavations, which became the proof that the country has been making wine for at least 8000 years. Therefore, you’ll find different types of wine here, but the amber-colored kind made with traditional methods in qvevri is still number one that attracts many tourists.

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5. It’s heaven for hiking lovers

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Hiking through the Caucasus. Ushguli-Sarah May Grunwald

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Due to the diverse nature of the country, Georgia has marvelous hiking opportunities for those who love spending days into the wildness. Whether you are a professional or a beginner, you can easily find a trail that suits your need and possibilities.

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6. Art Nouveau Architecture

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Tbilisi interiors by Baia Dzagnidze

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Georgia has been part of the Russian Empire in 18th-20th centuries, which affected the country in both good and bad ways. At least it brought European architecture first to the capital and then to the whole country. Tbilisi is home to gorgeous architectural marvels of Art Nouveau, Baroque, and Renaissance styles. Some of those buildings still preserve painted hallways, making the city even more charming and authentic.

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7. Buildings with Soviet-era mosaics still stand intact

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Soviet era Mosaic by Baia Dzagnidze

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Even though Soviet architecture might seem dull and simple at one glance, there are some beautiful buildings scattered across the country. And some even feature gorgeous mosaics showcasing the ideology of the regime.

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8. Rich in hot spring water retreats

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Take the healing waters in Borjomi-Sarah May Grunwald

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While you may have heard about sulfur baths of Tbilisi, that’s not the only place you can have a hot spring water experience. One of the natural treasures of the country lays in water resources, therefore there are several small towns and townlets that were turned into hot spring water retreats during the Soviet Union. Today, many continue to operate in BorjomiTskhaltubo, and Sairme to name a few.

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9. Seaside resorts are perfect for summer vacation

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Stunning beachs on the Black Sea Coast-Sarah May Grunwald

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Among many things, Georgia boasts with its seaside resorts. Even though Batumi is the most developed one of the area with a bustling vibe during the summer months, there are other coastal cities for those who are looking for a relaxing holiday at the sea. Moreover, some of those resorts are beneficial for health, especially the magnetic sand in Ureki and Shekvetili.

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10. Perfect for winter sports lovers

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Skiing in the Caucasus

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The mountain landscape and climate of the country make it an ideal spot for ski and snowboard lovers. Currently, there are four ski destinations within this small country. Gudauri is for young crowds who want to be closer to the capital, Bakuriani is good for children as the slopes are covered with pine forest, while Svaneti and Goderdzi are for those who like to escape the crowded Gudauri and Bakuriani, as well as enjoy a bit extreme sports.

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11. Georgia is home to unique flora and fauna

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Flora and Fauna

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One of the many reasons what makes Georgia a unique place is the flora and fauna that can’t be seen anywhere. For instance, Kobuleti Nature Reserve preserves an extraordinary plant, the only filtering sphagnum bog in the world.

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12. Mountains have their own architectural style buildings

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Sarah May Grunwald

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There are three most remote areas in the country – Tusheti, Khevsureti, and Svaneti. Besides their stunning mountainous landscapes, they are distinguished by their old dwellings. Due to the fact that Georgia was a subject of continues attacks and invasions, each and every family in those areas had their defense towers. Today, most of those medieval towers still stand intact and attracts hundreds of visitors to the communities.

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13. Watch one of the most beautiful sunrises

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Gomis Mta by Shotiko Tsikurashvili

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Bakhmaro and Gomis Mta are both nested between the mountains, above more than 2000 meters above the sea level, and surrounded by pine forests. They both offer picturesque views of the sun rising above the clouds.

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14. Travel to less developed Upper Adjara

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-Sarah May Grunwald

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Unlike Tusheti and Svaneti, a mountainous area of Adjara is less developed and more rural. When everyone heads to Batumi, you can spend a couple of days exploring this beautiful part of the country, while eating much more interesting local cuisine which is not the boat-shaped Adjaruli Khachapuri.

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15. Explore the canyons

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Martvili Canyon-Sarah May Grunwald

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Besides the well known Okatse and Martvili canyons, there are other natural wonders that see fewer tourists throughout the year. One of them is Dashbashi canyon and its gorgeous waterfall located in Samtskhe-Javakheti region.

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16. Visit the karst caves

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Karst Caves

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Georgia is also home to various karst caves, some of which are not even accessible for visitors. The most popular ones are Prometheus and Sataplia caves, but a couple of weeks ago, a new one opened in Terjola, Imereti region called Navenakhevi Cave. Similar to other’s, Navenakhevi cave has a walking trail and lighting system installed to easily admire the beauty of the underground nature.

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17. There are more natural wonders to explore

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Katskhi Pillar

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Katskhi pillar, located not far from Kutaisi, is one of the most popular natural wonders of the country. This 49-meter high limestone stands in the village of Katskhi and has a monastery built on top of its surface. Another one that might be of your interest is the Birtvisi rocks. These are high volcanic hillocks formed millions of years ago as a result of the volcanic eruption. There also is a least accessible fortress on those rocks.

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18. Travel in time through cave towns

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Georgia is also known for its cave towns like VardziaUplistsikhe, and David Gareji. Out of those three, Vardzia used to be the biggest and most inhabited town back in the day. The cave town was created in the 12th century as a hiding place during the invasions. It used to have thirteen floors, hidden escape tunnels, and special rooms to stray the enemies.

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19. Cable cars as a means of public transport

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Chiatura, the manganese town of Georgia is known for its dozens of cable cars, which used to help locals and mine workers to get from their homes to their working place. Today, most of those cable cars are not operating, but there are several that still serve the original purpose free of charge. And for those of you who are willing to boost their adrenaline, we’ll say that those cable cars have been operating for more than 55 years without any renovation!

Are you convinced already? Come Taste Georgia with us!

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Colorful Stained Glass in Old Tbilisi

Colorful Stained Glass in Old Tbilisi

By Taste Georgia

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On the outside looking in

One of my favorite houses to visit in Old Tbilisi is a little 19th century wooden house that is located on Betlemi Street. The staircase leading up to the very typical Tbilisi veranda has gorgeous multicolor stain glass windows that seem to glow as bright as electricity at sunset. It feels as if the unknown architect designed the veranda with sunset in mind. The windows light up and as the sun moves slowly down the horizon, different parts of the stairs and veranda and illuminated in dazzling rainbow colors. The old house has been preserved for over one hundred years. It is a still a private residence, so when you join one of our Tbilisi walking tours, please be respectful of the families who still live there.

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The light coming through the glass paints the walls rainbow every sunset

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Another beautiful point of view

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When you visit, you may have to wait while tourists take the perfect instrgram shot.

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An Afternoon Walk in Tbilisi

An Afternoon Walk in Tbilisi

By Taste Georgia

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Tbilisi is a great walking city and for photographs. I love walking through the backstreets to take photos of all the texture and colors. There are so many layers in this city. No matter how much time goes on, I love being a tourist in Tbilisi and taking walking tours in different parts of the city. There are still many secret spots in the Old Town area. It’s just a matter of touring a different corner.

Check it out:

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Nice view from below

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So much texture

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Signs with QR Code to showcase Tbilisi’ literary history

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A regional guide to Khatchapuri

A regional guide to Khatchapuri

By Taste Georgia

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Sarah May Grunwald’s article on Eat Sip Trip

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Ask an American to talk about Georgian cuisine and you’ll probably hear descriptions of peach cobbler, barbecue and fried chicken. Ask a European about Georgian cuisine and you’ll probably hear more about wine, cheese and khatchapuri.

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Testing Tasting Georgia

Testing Tasting Georgia

By Taste Georgia

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I joined the Saveur Cookbook Club which featured Tasting GeorgiaA food and wine journey in the Caucasus for the month of January. My fellow GeorgiaphileBenjamin Kemper invited me and I took up the task wholeheartedly. Ms. Capalbo has been writing about Italy and Italian cuisine and wine in great depth for years and her reputation proceeds her. I bought the book when it was first released because I have dedicated my work to Georgia and I will consume every morsel written about the place, the people, the food or wine of this wonderful country. I bought it in the same way I buy all cookbooks. I read them, keep them pristine, and then put them on the shelf to gather dust. I knew within five pages of reading this book I would not be shelving it. It’s a journey through all the regions of Georgia and encompasses the skills and flavors of not only the humblest of home cooks, but master chefs such as Tekuna Gachechiladze, Meriko Gubeladze and culinary genius Gia Rokashvili. Had I not cooked many of the recipes this month the book would still be huge resource of information.  I saw some familiar faces and learned so much more about them; the poetry of their lives written in the pages alongside gorgeous photographs that capture the essence of the individual.

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The book is well researched and beautifully written. It’s a personal journey of guest and host, of people opening their kitchens and sharing their family recipes. This alone is evidence enough of her approach and skill as a food journalist. She hasn’t inserted herself into their stories as one tends to see in food and travel writing today. She is listening and sharing with us, the readers.

Whenever people new to Georgia ask me what Georgian food is. I always answer that it’s both familiar and foreign. This book confirms this. Going through the histories of each region, one starts to find answers to what makes Georgian cuisine so international and so essentially Georgian at the same time. It’s not the ingredients. Except for a few spices blends and herbs and cheeses, most of the ingredients are easy to find. Many websites offer Georgian spices, and they can even be found on Amazon. I often post photos of Georgian food and depending on the recipe I receive a variety of comments that compare dishes to the Iranian food someone grew up with or remarks that a particular dish is also made in a neighboring country.

This sentiment is touched upon in the book and not surprising due to Georgia’s links to the Silk Road. But what is it that makes Georgian cuisine Georgian? I believe it is the people, the poetry of the table, the connection to the earth through qvevri wine or earthenware dishes. Though Georgia is not a large country, its food is regional and people are fiercely loyal to their family roots even if they were born in Tbilisi. As a companion to Georgian culture, food, wine and travel, this book is hugely successful. The table is where culture comes to life, food and wine in traditional cultures are not so far removed from the people. Perhaps this is why a book like this appeals. So many of us are separated from the culture of the table, we live long distances from friends or family or work life prevents that closeness. Reading about the Georgian table transports us back to something that all humans crave and that is a sense of belonging. I suppose many of us fell in love with Georgia because our friends there appeal to that very primitive need.

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This past month has had me transported to Georgia through the textures, aromas, and flavors of the ingredients in the book. The recipes stand up. They work for those of us who regularly eat Georgian food in Georgia and know the food, and they work for the novice as well. The directions are easy to follow and the results are on point. The first fifty pages are dedicated to introducing the reader to the food, wine, customs, ingredients and basic techniques necessary for the Georgian kitchen. It is then divided regionally, commencing with Tbilisi. It is a cookbook and introduction to Georgian culture as well as a travel companion. In each region there are travel tips for hotels or guest houses along with restaurants and other places to eat. I’ve already earmarked a number of places I’d love to share with our guests. I have learned through testing a number of these recipes that Gia Rokashvili is a culinary treasure. Every single dish of his was a symphony of flavors that are perfectly balanced. Seasonality is a huge factor in Georgian cuisine, so I was not able to recreate a few dishes as I did not have access to the ingredients. My favorite recipes that I know I will make repeatedly are the walnut paste and the hazelnut paste. The three types of ajika are warm, spicy and delicious, and make a great addition to my growing collection of ajika recipes. I discovered that leeks are truly one of the most amazing vegetables in the world. I tried and failed to succeed with lobiani and khatchapuri a number of times.

I followed the recipes for the yeasted dough and the yogurt and baking soda dough, but it kept falling apart until I used the correct type of flour. The issue was not the recipe itself but the ingredients I was using. The recipes are well done and she gives credit where credit is due. Georgians use what is available and she suggests for you to do the same. If you don’t have cornelian cherries on hand, why not try it with dried cranberries? It is okay. I have also gained a greater appreciation for dried marigold than I had before. In my mind, since I had never really cooked with it, I assumed it was for color, or perhaps gave a slightly bitter flavor like turmeric. While trying recipes with this humble flower, I realized that the marigold really takes Georgian dishes to the next level. It gives depth and earthiness.

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One must thank Ms. Capalbo for bringing Georgian cuisine out into the world at large. The attention to detail and incredible amount of research done to create such a culinary masterpiece should be celebrated. I know that this book will have a huge impact on my own life, in my kitchen, and in further travels through Georgia. On a personal level, I must thank Ms. Capalbo for inspiring me to continue in this wine and food tour project, Georgia’s time to shine is here. I fell in love with this Georgia in 2014. Madloba!

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“Carla asks, Carla tastes, Carla sees and Carla tells. And in so doing, she confirms my belief that the identity of a region and its people is built through the exchange not only of products and ideas but also the fruits of the earth and their producers.”

Carlo Petrini, President, Slow Food

All photos and text are under copyright of Taste Georgia and cannot be reproduced without permission.

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An Orange Wine for Orange Wine Lovers

An Orange Wine for Orange Wine Lovers

By Taste Georgia

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Do Re Mi may seem like an odd name for a wine company, but I can assure you they are not making absurd wines. This wine company was founded in 2013 by three friends who had a goal in mind. They wanted to create lovely, organic wines using  Georgian qvevri. The Marani is located outside of Tbilisi, on the road to Kakheti, but they source grapes from throughout Georgia.

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Last May during a wine oriented press trip with Taste Georgia, a group of wine colleagues and I attended the “No Compromise” natural wine festival that was held in three different restaurants and wine bars in the city. While the concept was sound in terms of wine, by the time we arrived after driving from Kakheti, we had to compromise comfort, personal space and air at all locations, so we left early and headed to my favorite wine bar in Tbilisi, G.vino. Originally we ordered a Lagvinari wine but it was unavailable so we ordered a bottle that we couldn’t read. When we saw the color, I knew right away it was Khikhvi. This is a Kakhetian wine grape that seems to define what orange wine is. So brightly orange that a passerby may have thought we were enjoying Aperol rather than a beautifully crafted natural wine.

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A few evenings before, I enjoyed a bottle of their Aladusturi, which was very pure and clean. And this khikhvi gave me the same sensation.

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Do RE Mi 2016 Khikhvi

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Clear and as brightly hued as an golden tourmaline. The visual aspect of the wine had as all gawking. It looked like fire in the glass. Despite its youth, it was ripe and full of peaches and apples. Sweet spices and nuttiness and just a hint of vegetal aroma. The taste was round and full, confirming the fruitiness of the wine but held up with great acidity and chalky tannins. Went beautifully with Adjika.

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